From Morrone del Sannio to Santa Croce di Magliano

11 - From Morrone del Sannio to Santa Croce di Magliano

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August 27, 2022 - Another cool morning. As I descend towards the tratturo through a narrow path partially covered by vegetation, I take stock of the day. The stage is longer than usual with some good elevation gains to overcome. As a result, I will arrive later than usual, risking getting caught in the rain that is forecasted for the afternoon. I definitely shouldn't "wander" but should stick to the plan. I know there is a potentially landslide-prone area ahead that I plan to bypass. Indeed, if the landslide is impassable, I would have to go back, and the detour would add 3 kilometers to the stage, "guaranteeing" me an arrival in the rain.

Once I reach the tratturo, the climb begins. The route is definitely pleasant, and the morning landscape "forces" me to take pictures.

In short, I arrive at Ripabottoni. I don't enter the town to save time, but I am curious to take a stroll. I pass by a small village of wooden houses evidently built after the 2002 earthquake. Fortunately, they are uninhabited, a sign that the emergency here has ended.

I resume the climb, this time steeper. The path is not easy due to the high grass, but I manage. The actual tratturo is not passable, so, as other times, I stay on the edge of a field that runs alongside it. After the field, the climb continues through a narrow path, once again invaded by grass, which ends on the SP71.

It's decision time. In front of me, the tratturo continues on a comfortable downhill dirt road that, however, will take me to the alleged landslide. From where I am, the landslide area is not visible, and the dirt road is in good condition: could it be that I cannot pass? I take a few hesitant steps forward, but then, in a moment of lucidity, I think about the 3 extra kilometers that await me if something goes wrong. I go back and take the slightly uphill SP71. As I move forward and continue to wonder if I made the right choice, I arrive at a point where the road shows clear signs of recent landslides: I am on the landslide. I lean out to see how the tratturo is doing, but I still can't see anything from here. Patience, I'll remain in doubt.

After about 2 km, the SP71 rejoins the tratturo route. I turn around to try to understand its condition, and where the path should have come out, there is only lush vegetation. Apparently, the landslide has really interrupted the path. I pat myself on the back before continuing without regrets.

A long descent towards the Cigno stream begins on a dirt road in good condition, at the end of which I cross the end of the tratturo "Cortile-Centocelle", that starts from the Taverna del Cortile (along the Castel di Sangro - Lucera tratturo): sooner or later, I'll have to walk it too!

The tratturo continues downhill and is clearly visible. I think it's the first time I've walked a stretch where the original 111 meters width is fully distinguishable. In reality, they have mostly become private property (only about 20 meters are still public), but the suggestion is still great.

The descent becomes steeper and steeper. The lands next to the narrow path are no longer cultivable, so the 111 meters of the tratturo are intact: what a spectacle! Equally beautiful is the stretch on the hill in front, which stands out clearly from the cultivated fields on its sides.

The Cigno stream is dry, so crossing it is not a problem. The following ascent is rather steep, so the absence of trees and clouds forces me to make a couple of stops: but wasn't it supposed to rain? I take advantage of the breaks to turn around and admire the descent I just traveled. If only the trail were always so well preserved!

The climb becomes easier and easier. Near Bonefro, I pass by another village of wooden houses: these also do not seem inhabited to me.

Finally, I reach the top of the hill. There are still 6 kilometers to the destination, and from this point on, there are a series of continuous ups and downs. Fortunately, the first clouds begin to appear, easing the fatigue of the journey.

It is 2:00 p.m. when I leave the trail to enter Santa Croce di Magliano. At the entrance of the town, there is a convenient bike path waiting for me, and... a downpour of rain! It's not a big deal: this year it just doesn't want to rain. I don't even cover myself and continue towards the B&B where I am warmly welcomed by Pasquale. The fridge, full of fruit, is raided to regain strength.

After the usual nap, I take a brief tour of the town. Mine is mainly a search for a place to eat in the evening. Knowing that I am looking for a resturant and not wanting to leave me alone, Pasquale offers to take me to a seafood restaurant in Termoli: a great kindness, given that it is quite a journey by car. To my great regret, I have to decline the invitation: I am dying of sleep and the next morning I have to wake up at 4:30. Nonetheless, I reward myself by going to eat some fish at a local restaurant: of course, a plate of pasta, as I would never want to lose my habit of eating carbs!

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